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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.